MOZIA
This
tiny island in the middle of a lagoon is so small as not to arouse
the least suspicion that it might have played any role in the history
of its larger neighbour Sicily. Yet, San Pantaleo – its modern
name, was chosen by the Phoenicians as a suitable site for a vital
and later prosperous colony. Its strategic position, surrounded
by the shallow waters of the Stagnone Lagoon (see Saline dello STAGNONE)
and naturally protected by Isola Longa on the seaward side, meant
that it was coveted as a strategic trade-post as much by the Carthaginian
as by the Syracusan antagonists. In the end, this was to be its
undoing: besieged by the Syracusan forces, Motya was completely
destroyed and left to abandon until it was rediscovered at the end
of the 19C.
A
PHOENICIAN CORNER
The
ancient Phoenician colony therefore, was founded in the 8C BC on
one of the four islands of the Stagnone Lagoon now known as the
Island of San Pantaleo (the name it assumed in the Middle Ages when
a group of Basilian monks settled there). Motya, the Phoenician
name by which it came to be known before, is alleged to translate
loosely as “spinning centre” after wool carding and
spinning cottage-industries were instituted on the island. Like
most other Phoenician colonies, the island became a commercial trade-centre-cum-staging
post for Phoenician ships plying the Mediterranean. The 8C BC also
saw the beginning of the Greek colonisation of Sicily which, for
the main, was concentrated on the east side of the island. It therefore
seemed appropriate for the Phoenicians to consolidate their activities
in the west enabling Motya to grow in importance and to evolve into
a small town. In the 6C BC, the struggle for Greek or Carthaginian
supremacy over Sicily gained momentum, and Motya was forced into
taking sides. Hefty defensive walls were erected around the settlement
to provide better protection. In 397 BC, the tyrant of Syracuse
Dionysius the Elder, laid siege to the town until at last it capitulated,
snuffing out every last will to continue. Its surviving inhabitants
sought refuge on the mainland, and soon integrated themselves among
the people of Lilybaeum, modern-day Marsala.
The
rediscovery of Motya is associated with the name of Joseph Whitaker,
an English noblernan living in the 1880s related to the family that
owned a well-established and flourishing business producing and
exporting Marsala wines. The house on the island built for Whitaker
now accommodates a small museum.
Access
– Leave the car at the landing-stage. Local fishermen assure
a regular boat service to and from the island. As recently as 1971,
it was still possible to ride in a horse-drawn cart across the old
Phoenician causeway linking the island to the mainland. Given that
the causeway lay just below the surface of the water, passengers
had the strange impression that they were “walking on water”
(see Porta Nord below). This was also the usual means by which the
Grillo grapes grown on the island since the 19C were transported
for use in making Marsala. As the island is approached, a profusion
of colour and smells seems to emanate from it like a warm welcome:
in spring the typical Mediterranean vegetation is especially lush,
a perfect excuse in itself for inspiring a visit. In the centre
stands the lovely 19C house built by the Whitakers, now a museum.
Excavations
– Footpaths run along the perimeter of the island and lead
in and among the vestiges of the Phoenician town (allow 1hr 30min;
furthermore, it may be well to advise following the path in an anti-clockwise
direction).
Fortifications
– The island lies in the lee of what was once a peninsula
– modern day Isola Longa, naturally protected from attack
therefore by the mainland and the shallow waters of the lagoon.
In order to increase its natural defences, Motya was enveloped by
an enclosure wall with watchtowers in the 6C BC.
These
fortifications were later modified and reinforced. The footpath
skirts past the remains of several towers, notably the east tower
(with a rectangular base) with its staircase up to the ramparts.
Porta
Nord – The North Gate is the more important and better preserved
of the town’s two entrances. The remains of the towers flanking
the gateway are still clearly in evidence. Inside, a section of
the original main street shows signs of wear, its surface rutted
by ancient cart-wheels. On the seaward side, just below the surface
of the water, extends a paved causeway linking Motya to Birgi on
the mainland. It covered a distance of some 7km and was just wide
enough to accommodate two carts abreast. Today, the way is “way-marked”
above the surface allowing the keenest visitors to walk the causeway
(although the wearing of rubber flip-flops or plastic sandals is
highly recommended). Enter through the gate and proceed along the
main street.
Cappiddazzu
– This alludes to the area that lies just inside the North
Gate: among the various buildings, the one divided into three aisles
may have served a religious function. Make your way back towards
the shore.
Necropolis
– A series of stelae and urns indicate the area used for Archaic
cremations and burials. A second necropolis was located on the mainland
at Birgi, at the far end of the submerged causeway directly opposite.
Tophet
– The sacred area consists of an open-air sanctuary where
urns containing the remains from human sacrifices to the goddess
Tanit and the god Baal Hammon were deposited. At that time, the
immolation of firstborn male children was widespread. A little further
along the track, the little island of Schola comes into view: this
is the smallest of the Stagnone Lagoon islands, and is distinctively
recognisable by its three pink roofless houses.
Cothon
– The small rectangular man-made harbour is linked to the
sea by a narrow channel. Its exact purpose is not known. Some experts
believe it to have been built as a harbour for the smaller, lighter
craft that might have plied between the island and the ships moored
in the lagoon, ferrying passengers as well as merchandise.
Porta
Sud – The South Gate is situated beyond the harbour: like
the North Gate, it too is framed by towers.
Casermetta
– As its name suggests, this building was reserved for the
military: the vertical stone shafts are a typical feature of Phoenician
constructions.
Casa
del Mosaici – The house with the mosaics is so called because
it preserves two fine black and white pebble panels with a winged
griffin chasing a deer, and a lion attacking a bull.
Museo
– The museum is devoted to displaying artefacts recovered
from the island itself, from Lilybaeum (Marsala) and from the necropolis
at Birgi, on the shore opposite Motya. In the front courtyard, are
arranged a series of stelae from the Tophet. The Phoenician and
Punic pottery is simple in shape and devoid of any decoration: the
imported Corinthian, Attic and Italiot vases, meanwhile, are decorated
with black or red figures. The sculpture collection includes allegorical
statuettes of motherhood, like the figurine of the Great Mother
terracotta heads betraying a Greek influence; without forgetting
the superb Ephebus of Motya, a noble, proud-looking figure wearing
a long, pleated garment, most evidently influenced by Hellenistic
prototypes.
Casa
delle Anfore – The House with the amphorae is located behind
the museum, beyond the houses. It owes its name to the simple fact
that a considerable number of amphorae were found there. |
